November 2024, Shimotsuki Yawame (Gentle)

"Gion Hanamikoji Choboya, My Personal Bike Parking Spot"

I don’t often find myself in the Gion area, but whenever I need to stop by shops like Kagi-zen (a sweets shop) or Yukame (an izakaya), I message Choboya to ask if I can leave my bike parked in front of their store.

Choboya is a traditional footwear shop, specializing in handcrafted geta and zori sandals worn by authentic geisha and maiko. The shop is tiny—probably about the size of three tatami mats. Since each pair of footwear is custom-made, there’s no need for large display areas for pre-made items. The owner sits on a small mat, working quietly, and the shop comfortably fits just about two customers before it feels full. This arrangement was intentionally designed by the first-generation owner, who thought, “It’s better for a small shop to look full with just a few customers than to look empty.”

Choboya has been a huge help to WLK, especially recently when they introduced us to a skilled artisan who makes top-quality straps for geta and zori. For our brand, HANAO SHOES, the appeal of these traditional straps is essential, and I’m deeply grateful for their connection.

I remember when I first visited Choboya to discuss the launch of HANAO SHOES. Back then, I went in with a stereotypical image of artisans as tough and serious. Nervously, I explained, “Um, I’m thinking of creating something like this…” only for the owner to surprise me by saying, “Oh, I’ve seen these sneakers! I thought they were fun and considered copying them myself!” That unexpected reaction is a fond memory.

Now, we’ve developed a relaxed relationship where Choboya is essentially my private parking spot in Gion—a bond I want to keep for years to come.

By the way, Choboya also introduced me to the French restaurant Alsace in Sakyo Ward, a famous spot known for its local dishes from the Alsace region bordering Germany. It’s typically fully booked, but it’s such a gem that I hope to go back sometime.

Returning to Gion, the area at night is now filled with foreign tourists. It seems almost like a different country, and I can’t help but feel that even the shops are beginning to cater to the international crowd. Over the next five years, I imagine the landscape of this historic neighborhood might change yet again.

2024.11 Yosuke Sakai